Chiseled into the wall, the scant remains of century-old trails evoke the early days of tourism here. Just above town, a somber memorial to the Italian attackers was built in the stern Fascist style under Mussolini. At the intersection of the Slavic, German, and Italian worlds, Slovenia is an exciting mix of the best of each culture. After a lifetime of exploring Europe - and inspiring Americans to see Europe as the springboard for world exploration - Rick Steves shares his reasons why. In this land of stout hill towns and rugged farmers, grapes for the full-bodied local red wine thrive in the iron-rich soil. The decadent kremšnita artfully sandwiches layers of cream and vanilla custard between sheets of delicate crust. Are you nostalgic about Yugoslavia? It looks just like a loft. Because he loved his town, walked to work each day, and had to live with what he designed, Plečnik was particularly thoughtful about incorporating aesthetics, nature, and people's needs into his work. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Slovenia. Join our Facebook Group: Rick Steves Over Brunch Podcast Listeners. Crowded onto the tip of its peninsula, Piran can't grow. They converted the attic of Tina's childhood home — creating plenty of space for their growing family. The "Third Way," we called it, and it was a lot different — like, we could travel, we had free-market economy, and there were jobs for everybody. Visitors begin by seeing a multitude of formations in a series of large caverns. Hike up to the cathedral and scale the Venetian-style bell tower. Thanks for joining us. Bled is the rowing capital of Slovenia. Rick: Tito had some magic ability to bring it together. These scales allow buyers to immediately double-check the arithmetic…just in case. But, we're right in the middle…Italy, Germany. While no motorized boats disturb the tranquility of Lake Bled, it does have its human-powered speed boats. Get ready for the open house tour of a lifetime as Rick Steves guides us through this French region's most evocative castles and palaces. And much of the fighting was actually done way up high, on the frigid mountain cliffs. Mostar and the stay in the Historic Bay's house was a great travel experience. Tito and his Partisan Army booted the Nazis without Soviet help. This special episode is a sonnet to travel - an introspective love story, set in Europe, that vividly celebrates the rewards of exploring our world and the joy that awaits those who travel. The first half of the experience is the "Silent Caves" (so called for the lack of running water), with a wide array of wondrous formations and what seem like large caverns. Rick: This is very comfortable and very spacious, really. He was famous by that hat. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. This special episode is a sonnet to travel - an introspective love story, set in Europe, that vividly celebrates the rewards of exploring our world and the joy that awaits those who travel. With this guide, you'll explore charming towns and undiscovered natural wonders. Nearby, market vintners proudly share their wines. Fancy facades and whimsical bridges ornament daily life with a Slovenian twist. In the grand cavern, the sound of a mighty river crashes through the mist. Today, the square is enjoyed by visitors and locals of all generations — savoring the good life where the Slavic world, the Alps, and the Mediterranean all come together. Gorazd: It's good, yeah. Little Slovenia is the least visited and most underrated of Europe's alpine countries. Natalija: Yes, absolutely. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. A small, friendly group of 24 people — half the size of most tour groups; The services of a professional Rick Steves guide and local experts who will make the fascinating history, art, and culture of Eastern Europe come alive for you; All group transportation from Prague to Lake Bled, Slovenia; 14 nights' accommodations in memorable, centrally located hotels We'll enjoy the playful architecture and lively café culture of its capital city, row to a church-capped island, explore the Julian Alps, descend into a grand, underground canyon, and sunbathe with Slavs on the tiny but inviting Slovenian coast. But one thing that's constant is the warmth and hospitality of its people. The poignant reality: costly battles eventually fade into the history books…like the Soča Front. Vendor: Dober dan. Seriously. Today it's decorated exactly as it was the day Plečnik died in 1957, containing much of his equipment, models, and plans. It memorializes 7,000 Italian soldiers — victims of just one battle. Rick: Whoa. It's a world where a thousand evil Wizard of Oz monkeys could comfortably fly in formation. Little Slovenia is the least visited and most underrated of Europe's alpine countries. Sašo: We will curse. Now, I still can't get over that, because — I've got to say — in America, there is a stigma about people in their 30s still with their mom and dad, raising their kids upstairs. A short drive south takes us into a totally different landscape: Slovenia's Karst region — a high, fertile, and windblown plateau. Our first stop is the country's top alpine resort: Lake Bled. Karel: Don't stick your bloody pinky in the air! Romantic pletna boats, unique to this lake, ferry visitors back and forth. Marijan — who leads tours all over Europe for Rick Steves — knows more than anybody about Ljubljana, and Slovenia, and the Balkans, and Europe…and, basically, everything. Sašo: I would say, "may you get kicked by a horse." Vendor: Yes. In Rick Steves Croatia & Slovenia you'll find in-depth Rick-tested information on: Croatia Dubrovnik and nearby (including Cavtat, Mljet National Park, Pelješac Peninsula, and Trsteno Arboretum) Split and nearby (including Trogir and Krka National Park) Korčula; Hvar Sašo: Built-in babysitters. The tasteful exhibits, with fine English descriptions and a pacifist tone, take an even-handed approach to the fighting — without getting hung up on identifying the "good guys" and the "bad guys." That's why, unlike his Eastern European neighbors, Tito could and did chart his own course — independent from the USSR. (37:02), Little Pleasures in Slovenia It was the scene of some of the fiercest fighting of World War I. The Habsburg days left locals with the old saying, "Trust is good; control is better." The road switchbacks down into the valley of the Soča River. Sašo: …Anže is his name. Tina: Yeah, this is a very typical socialist realism propaganda. Be warned: Everyone I've met who's visited Slovenia wishes they'd allotted more time for this endearing, underrated land. Ljubljana remains a treasure trove of engaging architecture. While the two families live separately, they share lots of dinners. Guides tell the story as, drip by drip, stalactites grow from spaghetti-thin strands to mighty sequoia-like stone pillars. Mostar and the Bay of Kotor were Highlights of our trip. He left such a strong mark, not only in Vienna and Prague, but definitely in Ljubljana, because all the land accesses and river accesses are designed by Plečnik. Above Grandma and Grandpa's! Before independence, before Yugoslavia, Slovenia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. When to Go to Croatia and Slovenia At the height of the tourist season, Split, Croatia, is jammed with daytime cruise ship visitors. And the hearty local food provides a good foundation for a lively conversation. Vastly outgunned, they fought back valiantly, eventually defeating the German invaders. When Tito ran Yugoslavia, he huddled with foreign dignitaries — from Indira Gandhi and Nikita Khrushchev to Kim Il Sung — right here. Since the Habsburg days, this is where Slovenes take their guests — whether kings or cousins — to show off their natural wonders. You can see them with shovels. Ljubljana is laid back — the kind of place where crumbling buildings seem elegantly atmospheric, rather than shoddy. Stroll atop the walls that encircle romantic Dubrovnik, wander through the Roman ruins in the heart of bustling Split, and set sail to the islands of Korcula and Hvar on the glimmering Adriatic. Rick: With Grandma and Grandpa downstairs. Bad things about Yugoslavia was maybe because there was no good stimulation for good workers. The museum's focus isn't on the guns and heroes, but on the big picture of the front and the stories of the common people who fought and died here. Trenches were carved into ice and rock instead of mud, and many ill-equipped conscripts froze to death. But if you look all around, you will see there are many, many personal objects…his glasses, or — for example — his hat. Over the centuries, different castles were built here, and they gradually moved out to the mouth of the cave. Italy. The Austro-Hungarians knew if their enemies could break through this front, it was a straight shot to their capital, Vienna. A colorful mix of work and pleasure boats fill today's harbor. Tina: Sašo. This is quite a surprise. This striking bank building was designed by an ambitious local architect, hoping to forge a uniquely Slovenian style. An eighth-century Slavic pagan temple dedicated to the goddess of love and fertility once stood here; the current Baroque version (with Venetian flair — the bell tower separate from the main church) is the fifth to occupy this spot. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Many Adriatic towns are overwhelmed by tourists and concrete, but Piran has kept itself charming and in remarkably good repair while holding the tourist sprawl at bay. Lake Bled's little island (Otok) is capped by a super-cute church that is pretty to look at from afar but also fun to visit. After a lifetime of exploring Europe - and inspiring Americans to see Europe as the springboard for world exploration - Rick Steves shares his reasons why. I read the section in my Rick Steves travel book about the Julian Alps (named for Julius Ceasar) which are in the NW part of Slovenia. Rick: That's your worst? Tina: Well, probably his magic ability was that he was a mix of all the nationalities that included Yugoslavia. Rick: In Slovene? The cave finally widens, sunlight pours in, and visitors emerge — like lost creatures seeking daylight — into a lush canyon. The most romantic route to the island is to cruise on one of the distinctive pletna boats (catch one at several spots around the lake — most convenient from in front of Grand Hotel Toplice or just below Hotel Park, replaced by enclosed electric boats in winter — unless the lake freezes). ▲ The Karst Windblown limestone plateau with world-class caves (Škocjan and Postojna), the Lipizzaner Stallion stud farm at Lipica, and the dramatically situated Predjama Castle. The Triple Bridge — where the town square joins the river — is both a popular meeting place and a beloved symbol of the city. Rick Steves Travel Gear Day Pack - Lightweight Backpack - Black. We will take the small boats named “pletna” across the lake to the church on the island. Rick: Half kilo. Afterwards you will enjoy the view of the lake from the top of Bled castle.On to Lake Bohinj where a cable car will take us to the top of Mt. This northwestern corner of Slovenia — within yodeling distance of both Austria and Italy — is crowned by the Julian Alps. Gorazd: No, no. Rick: Pol kilo… This is your farm? Ljubljana's single best activity is simply strolling the riverfront promenade and sitting in an outdoor café watching the stylish Slovenes strut their stuff. Ptuj Charming-if-sleepy historic town topped by a castle. Crews stroke rhythmically through glassy waters, merging natural and human grace. In the 15th century, the Italians had a fort here to defend against the Ottomans. I can see how it would make people just want to wave a flag. On top, catch your breath by enjoying views of Piran and nearly the entire Slovenian coastline. Rick's tip to use Korkyra Tours for the transfer to Dubrovnik did not "pan out". Tina's mom: Dober dan. No rips or stains. Sašo: That's the usual thing around here. Tina: I will say I was happy that I could live a part of Yugoslavia, but I am happy to be living in European Union as well now. We're headed north, into Slovenia's Julian Alps. The castle is striking, as are the views from the castle. Also enjoying dramatic lake views are handsome villas, mostly from the 19th century. It was all over Eastern Europe, and if you look at the picture, you can see the proud workers, you know, carrying their tools. Every ridge was strategic. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | All the bridges are crowded, you know. Maybe one of the better things was for young families, because they can get apartment, they can get a job. When I’m working on a guidebook, I can barely scribble fast enough to capture all of the insights that tumble out of Marijan… Then they flip over the cart to turn it into a sales stand. Ljubljana feels small. After breakfast enjoy a sightseeing tour of Bled. Though it's just a quick trip away from the tourist throngs in Croatia, Venice, Munich, Salzburg, and Vienna, Slovenia has stayed off the tourist track — making it a handy detour for in-the-know Back Door travelers. The Kluže Fort keeps vigil over the narrowest part of the valley, which leads from Italy, through Slovenia, toward Austria. By the 16th century, Predjama had become a castle for hunting more than for defense — explaining its current ­picturesque-but-impractical design. I'm Rick Steves. In this tiny country, it seems like everybody knows each other. Lake Bled retains an aura of the Romantic Age. The first castle here was actually a tiny ninth-century fortress embedded deep in the cave behind the present castle. Rick Steves Croatia & Slovenia. We begin in the capital city, Ljubljana. After relaxing at Lake Bled, we loop through the Julian Alps and the historic Soča River Valley. Rick: This is very interesting to me, because this is food I would think about in Germany or Austria or in the north. A fortress has capped Ljubljana's hill since Roman times. But the big name in local architecture and urban planning is Jože Plečnik. One of Ljubljana's most insteresting sights is the house of the architecht who redesigned much of his city. 57 Slovenia holiday packages with 82 reviews View Map. Rick: I find this propaganda so stirring. Vendor: Pol kilo. This modest but world-class museum offers a haunting look at the tragedy of the Soča Front. And then you can see here the true representative of a strong woman carrying a child and proudly waving the flag. Some kind of a muse, you know. The experience builds and builds as you go into ever-more-impressive grottoes, until you reach the truly colossal final cavern and its thundering river. As Yugoslavia broke up into separate countries in the 1990s, Slovenia became independent after a 11-day war. You can email Rick at rick… ▲▲▲ Lake Bled Photogenic lake resort huddled in the foothills of the Julian Alps, with a church-topped island, cliff-hanging castle, lakefront walkway, tasty desserts, and appealing side-trips. There's been a castle here for nearly a thousand years. In this unpredictable climate, hay is hung on the rack to stay dry. It was rebuilt in the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles so popular in Vienna, the empire's capital at the time. Locals still build their pletnas by hand with larch wood from a design passed down from father to son for centuries. For good or bad workers, the wage was all the same. It is, with only about a quarter-million people. The art in the Lady of the Rocks church was special, the one Euro tour a bargain and the guide refused a tip. With over a million casualties, it was nicknamed the "Valley of the Cemeteries.". Ladder rungs fixed to the cliff face (across the road from the fort) allowed soldiers to quickly get up to the mountaintop. Valleys that just a generation ago were industrial wastelands are green and getting greener. Rick Steves, Cameron Hewitt. Lake Bled's iconic island is the focal point of any visit. Sašo: We are punctual when we need to be punctual. Located where the Germanic, Mediterranean, and Slavic worlds come together, Slovenia has a unique appeal. Rick: So, how was communism in Yugoslavia different from all the communism we think about with the USSR? It was built during World War I by 10,000 Russian prisoners of war. Rick: This is great! But behind the gate, in his garden, the creative world of Plečnik opens up. Along with the Triple Bridge and market colonnade, Plečnik's brilliance for urban design — the ability to connect Ljubljanans to their city and river — is evident in his Cobbler's Bridge. A local superstition claims that if you ring this bell three times, your wish will come true. Rick: Thank you. Some farmers still use wooden carts to bring veggies in from their garden patches. These Alps, with their craggy limestone ridges, bring to mind Italy's Dolomites just over the border. Rick: Anže. Like the more famous Alps of Austria and Switzerland, the Julian Alps are busy with nature-lovers, both winter and summer. Sašo: Alright, and this is the little kid's room… In this minisode, we each share our favorite travel movies.Join Us! Tiny bits of limestone — the geological equivalent of sawdust around here — reflecting under the brilliant blue skies gives the river its rich turquoise color. Roughly five miles outside the town of Soča, the WWI-era Kluže Fort keeps a close watch over the narrowest part of a valley leading to Italy. While the valley is a favorite for nature-lovers today, it has its dark side. Its café terrace is open for visitors, but there's not much to see. He left such a strong mark, not only in Vienna and Prague, but definitely in Ljubljana, because all the land accesses and river accesses are designed by Plečnik. Here in what was Tito's ballroom, a mural survives, telling of WWII heroics. Sašo: Absolutely. Sašo: We are almost halfway through. Sašo: Yeah, ha ha ha. An earthquake leveled the city in 1895. After Tito died in 1980, his villa was converted into a classy hotel, offering guests a James Bond ambience. This peaceful river valley was known as the "Soča Front," or the "Isonzo Front" in Italian. Rick Steves' Europe. Rick: And a single bed — was he never married? Like Gaudí shaped Barcelona and Bernini shaped Rome, Plečnik shaped Ljubljana. While Grandma and Grandpa take care of him, Tina and Sašo are giving us a peek at their apartment. see our FAQ. Vendor: Pol kilo. Rick: Gorazd, you grew up with Tito. Terms of Service | Privacy, Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia-Herzegovina & Montenegro: Recommended Itinerary, Upcoming Holidays and Festivals in Slovenia, Croatia, Slovenia & Bosnia-Herzegovina: Recommended Books and Movies, Go Underground to Shine a Light on Europe’s Past, Beautiful Bled’s Scenic Lakeshores (and Cakes Galore), Eastern Adriatic 101: Croatia, Slovenia, and Beyond, Lake Bled: Exploring Slovenia’s Romantic Alpine Retreat, Ljubljana: An Underrated Gem in the Heart of Europe, European Impressions of America You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling to Croatia and Slovenia. The film about the bridge was a good tip. As an 18-year-old, Rick began traveling on … Over time, shoppers develop friendships with their favorite producers. Rick’s Best Two-Week Croatia/Slovenia Trip (by Car) Day 1: Arrive at Ljubljana's airport, go to Lake Bled (sleep in Lake Bled) Day 2: Relax at Lake Bled (sleep in Lake Bled) Day 3: Pick up car, drive through Julian Alps, end in Ljubljana (sleep in Ljubljana) Day 4: Ljubljana (sleep in Ljubljana) Rick Steves' Europe | Episode | The Best of Slovenia. Rick: So, Plečnik is very important to the Slovenian people. Centuries of rule from Vienna under the German-speaking Habsburgs seems to have both inspired an appreciation of the good life and strengthened the local spirit. This was unimaginably difficult warfare — waged in the harshest of conditions. ▲▲ Ljubljana Slovenia's vibrant yet relaxing capital, with a fun-to-browse riverside market, scintillating architecture, and inviting riverside promenade. Rick: Sašo. That's why maybe the faces are a little happier. Rick: So, Plečnik is very important to the Slovenian people. Rick: And…? Exploring the Slovenian countryside, you get the feeling that things work. Tiny, overlooked Slovenia is one of Europe's most unexpectedly charming destinations. Tina: Very typical. Natalija: Absolutely. Rick: "Three hundred hairy bears"? This is our living room. But it's by far the country's largest city, cultural capital, and a charming place to kick off any Slovenian trip. ... Little Slovenia is the least visited and most underrated of Europe's alpine countries. We booked an 8AM departure but found out on arrival that was changed to 6:30AM. And Slovenia, tucked away where Germanic, Mediterranean, and Slavic worlds meet, is one of Europe's most fascinating, yet least visited corners. Ninety-nine steps lead from the dock up to the summit — and the Church of the Assumption. Create custom playlists with more than 400 educational clips featuring the best of European history, art, culture, and experiences (plus topics beyond Europe) . The most dramatic cave to tour is Škocjan. We were never inside the Warsaw Pact. Apparently the other three people had an early flight and did not want to wait for the 9AM ferry so … Gorazd: Good for bad workers, yes. Rick: If you're angry what would…? As with most towns on the Adriatic, it was long ruled by nearby Venice, and retains its Venetian flavor. That's because the architect recognized that Ljubljana is located midway between Venice and Vienna, and the city itself was — and still is — a bridge between the Italian and Germanic worlds. But we can also be really laid back, relaxed, mellow about certain things. Villages gather around Baroque bell towers amid rich farmland. But still, you know, it's a propaganda of Eastern Europe — but it was so different over here. Slovenes are particularly fond of their famous local pastries. Slovenia Travel Guide by Rick Steves For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . Rick: Nice to meet you. Natalija: Absolutely. It has been a frantic week here at the Rick Steves’ Europe home office in Edmonds, Washington. English descriptions are sparse in its dull interior, but for most, the views of the place alone are worth the drive. Tina: Here we are. The riverfront market is a hive of activity, where big-city Slovenes enjoy buying directly from the farmer. Dates & length Places Filters. We’ve been playing host to an invasion of more than a hundred tour guides from all over Europe and beyond, in town for our annual guide summit and reunion — 10 solid days of strategy sessions, business meetings, reconnecting with tour members, and, of course, parties. My friend and Slovenian tour guide Tina Hiti is joining us to help sort out the Yugoslav puzzle. Terms of Service | Privacy, Lake Bled, Slovenia: Exploring a Dictator's Villa, Slovenia: Julian Alps and Soča River Valley. Plus you'll get all this, too. While neighboring Croatia is famous for its coastline, Slovenia enjoys its own 29-mile stretch of Adriatic seafront — that's about one inch per resident. When you come in, you don't realize how much is here. Sašo: Yes. Vršič Pass, which comes with 50 hairpin turns, was originally a military road. We end at the Adriatic resort of Piran. The social system was good… Sašo: Sašo, yeah. Rick took his first trip to Europe in 1969, visiting piano factories with his father, a piano importer. Dec 22, 2014 - Slovenia & Croatia Itinerary: Where to Go in Slovenia and Croatia by Rick Steves | ricksteves.com The hotel that was once the summer residence of the Yugoslavian dictator, is now less tolerant of curious tourists than it was when this episode was filmed. (18:20), Do-over for my Poland trip - adding a little countryside. The room is soon going to be shared by another baby, which is due in four and a half months. This would be just about our worst. Vogel for some amazing views of the Alps. 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