According to legend, St. Mark actually traveled here, personally bringing Christianity to the region. This exquisite, professional, and small hotel has nine plush rooms, a velvety royal living/breakfast room, and its own dock for water taxi arrivals. Video: Carnival in Venice It’s Carnival time! This prison — with its discouraging bars — held commoners and nobles alike. This is your best chance in Italy (outside of Ravenna) to glimpse a forgotten and somewhat mysterious part of the human story — Byzantium. Greece Saw this hotel on TA & one of Rick Steves' books. Practicalities. With water taxis, police boats, delivery boats, post boats, and over 400 gondoliers all navigating around the churning vaporetti, there's a lot of congestion on the Grand Canal. Technically, he was a noble selected by other nobles to oversee the carrying out of their laws and decisions. ... Venice, Italy: A Boat Tour of the Lagoon by Rick Steves' Europe. Along the way we'll feast on Venetian treats, get a splash of modern art, then glide on a gondola through this city of elegant decay. It's an ancient Roman statue carved of precious purple porphyry stone — symbolic of power — pillaged from far away, probably Constantinople, and placed here proudly as spoils of war. These much-coveted and exquisitely cast bronze horses are a trophy befitting the city's power. Rick: Eat with your fingers, with your wine. But my local friend Piero has a knack for explaining the real Venice. Alessandro: When you come here to the bar, you have to order what they find in the market in the morning; has to be fresh. Venice, more than any other city, is the place to get out early and stay out late — to be swept away. Travel with a Mobile Device The Arsenal put the "fear of Venice" into visiting rulers. His shop is just behind St. Mark's Square, inland from the Church of San Zaccaria on Fondamenta de l'Osmarin — look for it down an alley from the Ca' del Sol mask shop. With a good regional wine in a rustic setting, you can eat cheaply and make new friends or enjoy old ones. Boats come by every few minutes, so you can hop off and on all along the way. Italy The Franciscans, inspired by St. Francis, were non-materialists — part of a reform movement that spread across Europe in the early 1200s. The most lavish face the Grand Canal. There's no place like it. You may see construction work being done to strengthen the base of the rebuilt tower. Easy-to-follow maps (including color maps of Italy, the St. Mark's Square area, the Rialto Area, and a Venetian overview) Trip planning: When to go, pre-trip checklist, festivals and holidays, recommended books and movies Sign in to YouTube. Today, they're back in what Venetians believe is their rightful home. For an ear-shattering experience, be here at the top of the hour. These four guys are a favorite of mine. The basilica is decorated with a ragtag assortment of mismatched columns and statues from different eras, much of it pillaged from Venice's rivals. Give the freebies a try, and if you ... Venice: City of Dreams Naples and Pompeii Budapest: The Best of Hungary Rick Steves' Andalucía: Here in the Senate Hall, nobles gathered to address their colleagues, debate, and pass laws. France Terms of Service | Privacy, Venice, Italy: Grand Canal and La Salute Church. The Naval Museum itself (Museo Storico Navale) is very old-school and military-run, but anyone into maritime history or sailing will find its several floors of exhibits interesting. I'd call it "Early Ransack.". About 25 miles of canals crisscross the city, flowing like streams into the Grand Canal. And, until the 16th century, when explorers like Vasco da Gama and Columbus opened up the world leaving Venice stuck in a geographic hole, Venice did dominate. Later the Venetians grabbed them, only to have Napoleon swipe them to decorate an arch in Paris. Over the high altar, glowing red and gold like a stained-glass window, Titian's Assumption of the Virgin Mary sets the tone of exuberant beauty found in this church. Travel as a Political Act, England & Wales My guidebooks outline a stop-by-stop tour, as does my free audio tour of the canal. 25:05. And, in good medieval style, they come with religious lessons. To navigate over shifting sand bars, the boats were flat-bottomed, and the captains stood up to see. Here's a breakdown of a few of the must-do's he points out while visiting the city in this episode of "Rick Steves' Europe." Originally simple and spacious, over time, it was embellished with chapels, added by wealthy groups or families who hired leading artists to leave their mark. The city is actually a car-free maze of about 100 islands, laced together by several hundred bridges and a vast web of alleys and canalside walkways. Alessandro says it's alright to just point at what you want, but your selection will be limited to what's fresh from the market that day. Alessandro: That's good! The city was driven by an interest in dominating Mediterranean trade. You help yourself, one for you, one for me, a little for you, a little for me, and they try you see, look yeah. Enjoying the views from a vaporetto is the best way to really appreciate the front doors of this historic chorus line of mansions, most from the 14th and 15th centuries. Karel: Deep breath, deep breath…. This was the Venetian Republic's religious and political center: St. Mark's Square, or Piazza San Marco, with the Basilica of St. Mark and the Doge's Palace. While there are a number of luxurious big hotels in town, my favorites are the smaller, family-run ones — which combine historic character, a warm and friendly welcome, and plenty of travel tips. Thanks for joining us. To gain religious importance and a kind of legitimacy, the Venetians needed some important relics. They're cleaning and resetting old stones and cutting new ones as necessary — all according to the exact medieval original. That's why they maintain a refreshing alpine-feel in this delightful little corner of Venice. The winged lion is the symbol of Mark, the patron saint of Venice. Alessandro's tours include sampling cicchetti with wines at three different bacari. Rick Steves is on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, YouTube, and you can follow @RickSteves on Twitter. ... VOLTERRA on Italy's Great Hill Towns by Rick Steves by VolterraTelevision. From the outside, it's a riot of domes, columns, and statues, completely unlike the towering Gothic churches of northern Europe or the heavy Baroque of much of the rest of Italy. For centuries it was nicknamed "La Serenissima," the most serene place — and you're about to see why. Older than most of Europe's churches, it feels like a remnant of a lost world. And in this clip from my public television special Rick Steves’ European Easter , we don masquerade masks to drop in on “Carnevale” festivities in Venice. To help you plan your sightseeing, we've listed our ideal itineraries for Venice, whether you're going for one day, two days, three days, or more. Visiting here, many feel that they're experiencing beauty, people, and even life itself at a more intense level. The city's main thoroughfare is busy with traffic. For centuries, it was nicknamed La Serenissima, "The Most Serenely Beautiful One" — and for good reason. With aggressive trade policies and clever alliances, for Venice, the eastern Mediterranean was a virtual free-trade zone. Venice is small. Stroll through styles represented by artists whom Peggy knew personally — Cubism (Picasso, Braque), Surrealism (Dalí, Ernst), Futurism (Boccioni), American Abstract Expressionism (Pollock), and a sprinkling of Klee, Calder, and Chagall. In the Dorsoduro district, you can visit the workshop of Saverio Pastor, another fórcola maker, who has scale models for sale one canal east of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection; detour south along Fondamenta Soranzo de la Fornace to #341). Photo credit: Courtesy of Rick Steves. The grandest of these is the Rialto. Its main drag — the Grand Canal — starts at the fish's mouth and winds through the center. As they've done for a thousand years, artisans here are patiently restoring a damaged piece of mosaic. St. Mark's bell tower — or campanile — soars 300 feet over the square. Venice's sleek and graceful gondolas are a symbol of the city. I’m one happy dad right now — because both my kids called me today from Europe. His bones would be perfect. Rick: Look at that! From his once-lavish (now sparse) quarters, you'll follow the one-way tour through the public rooms of the top floor, finishing with the Bridge of Sighs and the prison. While lots of towns made plague monuments, Venice built this entire church in hopes of surviving a disease that hit in 1630, and within 14 months killed a third of its people. Venice, more than any other European city, has a seductive charm. Where the Grand Canal opens up into the lagoon stands one of Venice's most distinctive landmarks, the church dedicated to Santa Maria della Salute, Our Lady of Health. But, with their natural lagoon defenses, Venetian palazzos could be sumptuous rather than fortified. We had the great pleasure of hosting American travel writer and television personality Rick Steves in late April. 2:17. Be thankful…and keep on travelin'. Rick: By the tail! They were a huge concern. I have taken one tour - and that was the 14 Family Europe Rick steve’s Tour , with one of my three kids ( my 11 yr old daughter ) . It WAS more expensive than travelling independently , and was in fact only part of our 28 day visit to Europe . Rick: So this is representative of what Francisco found in the market good this morning. I'm Rick Steves, surrendering to the timeless charms of Venice. It's perfect for a romantic anniversary, and owner Matteo makes guests feel like royalty. Today many former palazzos survive as hotels. This dramatic bell tower replaced a shorter tower, part of the original fortress that guarded the entry of the Grand Canal. Among Europe's churches, St. Mark's is peerless. Of all the loot ornamenting this church, its grandest prize is a set of horses, which for centuries looked out over the square. She married the painter Max Ernst. Stepping into La Salute, the glorious architecture — a round dome atop a hexagonal base — makes the relatively small church seem bigger than it is. These are the videos that Rick posts on his blog, where he shares his travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on his mind. To cross the Grand Canal where there's no bridge handy, save time and energy by hopping a traghetto — one of the ferry gondolas, which shuttle pedestrians back and forth at strategic locations. Alessandro: If you keep going for three, four bars, yes. But all the magic sits on a practical foundation of political and economic might. A tower has stood here, like an exclamation point, proclaiming the power and greatness of the Venetian Empire, for 1,200 years. From the start, boats were the way to get around among the island communities of the lagoon. Ireland To see the work in action, visit the wood-carving shop of Paolo Brandolisio. Nice little hotel with 25-30 rooms situated in an 800 year old building and located just a stone's throw from the Rialto Mercato vaporetto stop (a huge advantage when hauling luggage) and a very short walk from the Rialto Bridge-- … Europe for Foodies In this first of two episodes on Venice, we'll sample the splendor of the Doge in his palace, take a pilgrimage to St. Mark's Basilica, see some famous horses, enjoy a grand but noisy view, feast on Venetian treats, get a splash of modern art, be dazzled by masterpieces of the Venetian Renaissance, and get intimate with the city of Casanova...on a gondola. By Rick Steves and Gene Openshaw. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting the island city of Venice.Following the self-guided tours in this book, you'll explore Venice's most important landmarks and cruise the Grand Canal for a close-up look at the elegant palaces, bridges, and churches. Alessandro: By the tail, and you eat it, just you want, they are fantastic…dopo di me! On a gondola, you glide through your own private Venice — far from the hubbub of modern tourism. In Donatello's wood carving of St. John the Baptist, the prophet of the desert — dressed in animal skins and almost anorexic from his diet of bugs 'n' honey — announces the coming of the Messiah. )Europe is effectively off-limits to American travelers … The Republic's fortified shipyard, with 3,000 workers using an early form of assembly-line production and standardized parts, it could produce one warship a day. It features the work of three great Renaissance masters: Donatello, Giovanni Bellini, and Titian — each showing worshippers the glory of God in human terms. Today an elevator zips you effortlessly to the top to enjoy a commanding view. Alessandro is joining us to give our nibbles some meaning. When the king of France came to town, he was taken here for a humbling spectacle: the creation of an entire warship before his very eyes. The doge was something of an elected king, which only makes sense in an aristocratic republic like Venice. Because you can't drive a car in Venice it's perfectly suited to bar hopping like this. And each walnut fórcula — the stylized oarlock — is like a sculpture: hand crafted, one of a kind, and honoring the city's heritage. Its stunning golden wall of 250 painted enamels features prophets and saints, and, at its center: Jesus, as the Ruler of the Cosmos. Eating cicchetti is a tasty opportunity to try something new and unusual. It's customary to stand. Here, Bellini places them in a physical setting so beautiful it creates its own mood of serene holiness. Can't afford a private gondola? Don't worry too much about the great art. Today's boats still come with gondoliers standing up and no rudder or keel. You could take two round-trips on this for the cost of an ice cream cone. Enjoy the building. Lonely bridges, canals without sidewalks, and reflections of once-upon-a-time grandeur. The art of the gondola survives in the quiet back canals. For four centuries, this was the most powerful piece of real estate in Europe. Rick Steves' Europe, was his second show which debuted in 2000. To enhance your art experience, you can find a clip related to this artwork at Rick Steves Classroom Europe; just search for “St. Oh, that's an explosion of taste! In this shop the workmen — who needed to be good with wood — were traditionally from Italy's mountains. Opponents of the government were dealt with swiftly and decisively. The city's ceremonial front door was unfortified and faced the sea. Iran's rich history goes back millennia, to the days when Persepolis was home to "the king of kings." Titian's complex composition draws you upward — from man on earth, to triumphant Mary, and on up as she rises to join God in heaven. With mountains of capital, plenty of traders with ready ships, and an awesome military, Venice was a commercial powerhouse — one of the six biggest cities in Europe. According to the romantic legend, gazing out the window, prisoners tried to enjoy their last view of Venetian beauty, sighed…and were taken to their cell. Alessandro: This, this one they are cooked in the oven. Adjacent, Giovanni Bellini's Madonna and Saints was painted by the father of the Venetian Renaissance in a softer, more Venetian style. Originally, Venice had two major centers of power: one at San Marco, and one here at Rialto. The creation dome tells the story of Genesis with Adam and Eve and the original sin. A palace served all the family's needs — import/export warehouse at water level, business offices above that, and plush living quarters above that — all under one roof. The remains of St. Mark lie beneath the high altar. The church is covered with glass and gold mosaics. While it didn't have vast land holdings, Venice was a mighty trading empire — built upon a network of ports and a mastery of the sea. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, The style? Debonair guide Alessandro Schezzini is a connoisseur of Venetian bacari — classic old bars serving wine and traditional cicchetti snacks. Cantina Do Spade: Highly recommended by a local AND Rick Steves - See 2,182 traveler reviews, 912 candid photos, and great deals for Venice, Italy, at Tripadvisor. European Cruising 101 ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Located in Italy, at the north end of the Adriatic Sea, is Venice. This city also has several palaces now functioning as art galleries, which are packed with old Venetian masterpieces. On every square is a surprise, and around each corner is an excuse to savor the unique charms of the city. Donatello was a Florentine working here in Venice at the dawn of the Renaissance. Mark — looking pretty grumpy after the long voyage — became the city's patron saint, and his symbol, the winged lion, became the symbol of Venice. Scandinavia Get ready to be immersed in the wonder of this continent's most romantic city: Venice. In this travel class, Rick Steves outlines the glories of Venice, from the Grand Canal to the Rialto Bridge to St. Mark's Square — including art-filled churches, opulent palazzos, twilit gondola rides, and three other cities in the northeast Italian region of Veneto: Padua, Verona, and Ravenna. Mary then sends an angel baby to drive away Old Lady Plague. With a shrinking population and in a state of elegant decay, Venice survives on the artificial respirator of tourism. In a scene-by-scene storyboard, we see Adam lonely in the garden, the creation of Eve, and then trouble: from apple…to fig leaf…to banishment. He organizes two-hour Venetian pub tours (better to book by email than by phone). Andy FaceTimed me from the Cinque Terre, and I got to wave to 25 happy travelers on the Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days Tour he is leading. The vast Hall of the Great Council could host a meeting of 2,500 nobles. With astonishing foresight, she assembled a Who's Who of her generation's greatest art. That tower crumbled into a pile of bricks in 1902, a thousand years after it was built. The long, lofty nave, flooded with light, was ideal for large gatherings to hear sermons. Venice is a great place to fall in love, enjoy a honeymoon...or a special anniversary. This is just one more way to yield to the enchanting wonders of this "most serene" city. And perhaps the best way to appreciate that is gliding through its picturesque canals on a gondola. Venice Travel Guide by Rick Steves For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . Thanks for joining us. And she supported young artists, helping turn a struggling Jackson Pollock — with his Abstract Expressionism — into a celebrity. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. The Doge's Palace was built to show off the power and wealth of the Republic. Rick Steves Istanbul Youtube They also have what they call a Give Away Page, which is over two hundred of their most popular titles, audio books, technical books, and books made into movies. The Pala d'Oro, or Golden Altarpiece, is a medieval masterpiece. (Walk down the Accademia side of the canal called Rio San Trovaso; as you approach Giudecca Canal, you'll glimpse the beached gondolas on your right across the canal.). (If you think of this tour as a light dinner with a local friend, it's a particularly good value.). Every morning, she could sit here on her terrace, sipping her coffee, taking in the Grand Canal, living the Venetian dream. Plagues decimated communities throughout Europe. You can pop in to watch Paolo carving both fórcole and traditional oars. Take a joyride and introduce yourself to Venice by boat. The Christian symbolism is unfamiliar to Western eyes, done in the style of Byzantine icons and even Islamic designs. Portugal While the Arsenale is still a military base and is therefore closed to the public, its massive and evocative gate, the Porta Magna, is worth a look (to see the gate, turn left at the Naval Museum and follow the canal). Everything we'll see is within a 10-minute walk of the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark's Square. The Grand Canal cuts Venice in half, and has only four bridges. They're built with a slight curve, so that a single oar on the side propels them in a straight line. Germany & Austria With Rick Steves’ Venice 2007, travelers can experience everything Venice has to offer—economically and hassle-free. The grand church of St. Mark's was built in a distinctly Eastern style. At its peak, in the early 15th century, of its 180,000 citizens, nearly 1,000 were fabulously wealthy. The group was all smiles, tanned, rested, and ready for their Italian seafood feast. As Venetian nobles traded their way into fabulous wealth, they built luxurious palaces like this one, which has been owned by the Pisani family for nearly 400 years. Terms of Service | Privacy. Venice, more than any other European city, has an endlessly seductive charm. In 1948, the American-born heiress retired here in Venice. Alessandro: It is a small bite, you know, that you normally have when you have a glass of wine with a friend. The doge lived with his family on the first floor up, near the halls of power. Rialto, which left the politics to San Marco, has long been the commercial district of Venice. Tintoretto's Triumph of Venice shows the city — always represented blond and virtuous — in heaven among the Greek gods, receiving the wealth of the sea. Find a gondolier whose personality you enjoy, settle on a price, and hop in. Beat the crowds and enjoy the crisp morning air at 9:00 or the cool evening breeze at 18:00 (but closes earlier in winter, tel. The "Church of the Friars" was built by the Franciscan order and the art that decorates it feels warmed by the spirit of St. Francis. Its lacy exterior, a distinct blend of east and west, is Venetian Gothic. The place is wallpapered with masterpieces by Veronese and Tintoretto. The seat of the Venetian government and home of its ruling duke, or doge, this was the most powerful half-acre in Europe for 400 years. Crown-shaped La Salute was the crowning achievement of architect Baldassare Longhena (who also did St. Mark's Square's "new" wing and the Ca' Rezzonico), and the last grand Venetian structure built before Venice's decline began. Sign in. Cruise the Canal Grande all the way to St. Mark's Square, starting at the train station (Ferrovia) or the bus station (Piazzale Roma). Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. And talk about well-traveled: According to legend, they were cast for Alexander the Great in the fourth century B.C., taken by Nero to Rome, then brought by Constantine to his new capital in the East, Constantinople. The popular museum of far-out art, housed in the American heiress' former retirement palazzo, offers one of Europe's best reviews of the art of the first half of the 20th century. This is a great way to try a variety of dishes. It's a fish-shaped island connected to the mainland by a long causeway. Verona, Italy: Joy of the Veneto by Rick Steves' Europe. From here, you can see how Venice is an island lying in the center of a vast lagoon. Go inside to buy tickets; the kiosk in front just rents audioguides and is operated by a private company. You can walk across it, from head to tail, in about an hour. In this episode, Rick Steves explores three historic capitals of Iran: Persepolis, with its splendid monuments; Shiraz, with the tombs of Iran's most beloved poets; and Esfahan, with its extraordinary mosques and endearing people. The sprawling palace is a maze of richly decorated rooms. Wait till early evening, when the crowds are gone, and the light is right. The goods — in the case of this family, furs, salt, cotton, and coffee — came off ships through this loading dock. Gondolas are moored everywhere. Mark”. Ciao! You'll see the evolution of warships, displays on old fishing boats, and gondolas (all described in English). But don't forget, according to Alessandro, you only eat cicchetti so you can have more of the main course: wine. And for further encouragement, the famous Bridge of Sighs led directly from the palace to its infamous prison. Along with economic might, the splendor of Venice was built upon a foundation of military power. But I particularly enjoy seeing art in the setting for which it was designed — that's in situ — like at the Chiesa dei Frari. Its domes and elaborate exterior remind us of Venice's close ties with the Greek, Byzantine, and Muslim worlds. Power in Venice also came from some ancient bones. At this hotel, I'm splurging to enjoy that prince for a day feeling in the lounge, a bedroom with all the comforts, and a terrace with a view of the Grand Canal. Her dining room, with its original table, is still decorated with masterpieces by Brancusi, Braque, and others. Well, I'm all alone! There's no place like it. So much to see, so little time. Iceland Ride the elevator 325 feet to the top of the bell tower for the best view in Venice (especially at sunset). Posted on March 24, 2020 April 29, 2020 Daily Dose of Europe: Piero’s Venice They were all about poverty, simplicity, and obedience — with an emphasis on the humanity of Jesus. She made her mark as a friend, patron — and lover — of modern artists. Rick Steves, Venice Bites Updates . With a huge span and foundations stretching about 200 yards on either side, it was an engineering marvel back in the 1500s. Inside is a decor of mosaics, colored marbles, and oriental treasures that's rarely seen elsewhere. For me, this church offers the best art-appreciation experience in Venice, because so much of its great art is in situ — right where it was designed to be seen, rather than hanging in museums. These work like city buses except that they never get a flat, the stops are docks, and if you get off between stops, you'll drown. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Venice. The interior of the basilica glitters with its gold-leaf mosaic work. Along with a powerful collection of weapons — state of the art in its day — it comes with some fun curiosities: tiny crossbows, thumbscrews, and a particularly effective chastity belt. The show has reached its tenth season to date. Survey the city by cruising the Grand Canal on a boat called a vaporetto. In this travel class, Rick Steves outlines the glories of Venice, from the Grand Canal to the Rialto Bridge to St. Mark's Square — including art-filled churches, opulent palazzos, twilit gondola rides, and three other cities in the northeast Italian region of Veneto: Padua, Verona, and Ravenna. The entrance hall features an elaborate and cohesive series of Old Testament scenes. 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